Streets change character every few blocks: a crowded corner full of conversation, a quiet lane of low houses, then a stretch where pavement gives way to sand. In Nouakchott each neighborhood has its own habits, and the Sahara is never far from the end of the road.

The climate is hot desert, dry for most of the year with a short rainy season in summer, and evenings cool down more than you might expect. Mornings and late afternoons suit a stroll, while midday asks for shade. A Local Friend introduces you to their own neighborhood, and the corner you would have walked past becomes the place you remember.