Silence here has texture. At dawn on the lake shore you hear water on stones and a paddle dipping, and out on the plateau the road runs a long way before the next village appears. Hills fold into hills, and when a village does come into view, the greetings last long enough to fill the quiet.
The climate is mostly tropical, softened by altitude: warm and rainy from about November to April, then dry and clear through the cooler months, with the southern lowlands running hottest. A Local Friend walks beside you instead of ahead, pointing out the footpath, the best sunset spot and the people worth greeting.