Car horns and the voices of tro-tro mates shouting the next stop are often the first sounds of the city, rolling over the stalls of Makola Market. Walk south to Jamestown and the soundtrack changes, with gulls over fishing canoes and the thud of gloves from the boxing gyms of Bukom.
Beyond the old quarter, Oxford Street in Osu stays loud until late, and weekends on Labadi Beach come with drumming and reggae. The air stays hot and humid, with heavy rains from April to June and a dusty harmattan haze around January. A Local Friend can lead you through doors you would have walked straight past, into a carpenter's yard or a family courtyard on a festival day.
