The day here is written by the sky. Mornings start warm and damp, mist lifts off the treetops, and by mid-afternoon a sudden downpour sends everyone under the nearest roof for a cold drink and a long chat. Then the sun returns, the air smells of wet earth, and the Atlantic breeze cools the evening.

The climate is tropical and humid all year, with a drier season mid-year that eases forest trails and river trips. Pack light fabrics and a rain layer, and save outdoor highlights for the early hours. A Local Friend can pick the next stop when your plans run out.