The sea is the first thing you meet. Fishing boats slide out before sunrise, waves slap the harbour walls, and the tide decides when the afternoon begins. Inland, the Indian Ocean gives way to green volcanic slopes where each village keeps its own stories about the water.

The climate is tropical, with a hot, humid wet season and a cooler, drier one, so plans bend around the weather. Pack light layers for the evenings and a rain jacket for the hills. When your plans run out, a Local Friend picks the next stop, whether that is a quiet beach, a busy lane or a table by the water.