The first thing you notice is drums, rolling over the hills and answering each other from one valley to the next. Singing follows, then clapping, then a circle of neighbours making room for you. Between songs the country offers green slopes and a big lake at the edge of the map.

Weather is tropical, softened by altitude, with two wet and two dry seasons, so the highlands feel cooler than the lakeshore. Pack a light layer for the evening. Bring curiosity too, because a Local Friend walks beside you instead of ahead, happy to explain a song, wait while you listen, and join the dance when it starts.