“Dumela, rra. Dumela, mma.” The greeting comes before any question in the shops of the Main Mall, and a quick honk from a passing combi means there is still a seat inside. Then the sounds thin out. Three bronze chiefs stand over the business district, and baboons pick their way across the rocks of Kgale Hill.
Beyond the center, zebras and kudu graze in the Gaborone Game Reserve, and weddings still end with seswaa pounded by hand. Summers are hot, with storms between October and April, while winter brings dry, sunny days and cold nights. A Local Friend can lead you through a gate you would never have opened alone, into a family celebration where the seswaa is still warm.

