A conversation here begins with a proper hello, and it is rarely rushed. People ask after your family and your journey before anything else, then gather in the shade of a tree or around a fire. Beyond the villages the land opens wide, with flat horizons, winding river channels and herds crossing the plains.

The climate is mostly semi-arid, with hot, rainy summers and dry, cooler winters when mornings feel crisp and afternoons turn warm. Pack layers. A Local Friend opens a door you would not have knocked on, whether that is a family courtyard, a neighbourhood gathering or a table where a stranger becomes a guest.