Shop the Almacenes San Jose market, upstairs first

At airport taxi ranks and around Old Havana, a friendly helper may say your booked casa particular or restaurant is closed or full and offer an alternative, usually for a commission added to your price. Confirm with your host by message, walk to the address yourself and book ahead from November to April. Licensed…

The Hotel Nacional de Cuba opened in 1930 on Taganana Hill above the Vedado seafront, a Spanish eclectic landmark designed by McKim, Mead and White, and it is still operating as the national flagship hotel. Even if you sleep elsewhere, ask at the desk whether the guided tour of the tunnels built during the Cuban…

Every November Havana hosts the Marabana, an AIMS-certified marathon with half marathon, 10K and 5K races, and a long stretch of the course follows the Malecon seafront. Starts are early in the morning to beat the heat, entries go through the official race website, and bib collection is at the Habana Libre hotel in…

Founded in 1960 by Alicia Alonso, the Havana International Ballet Festival brings the Cuban National Ballet and guest companies to the Gran Teatro Alicia Alonso, with other city theatres joining in. It has usually been held every other year, with performances running from late October into early November, so check the…

The best frame of Old Havana is from across the bay at the Cristo de La Habana in Casablanca, a white marble statue about 20 meters tall. Take the little Lanchita ferry from the Muelle de Luz terminal, which also serves Regla, then walk up to the park, which is free to enter. The service sometimes uses a single boat…

The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is split into two buildings a short walk apart in Old Havana. The Palacio de Bellas Artes on Trocadero holds Cuban art, including Wifredo Lam and Rene Portocarrero, while the former Centro Asturiano on San Rafael holds European paintings and ancient art. Start with the Cuban…

The Necropolis of Cristobal Colon in Vedado was built between 1871 and 1886 and declared a National Monument in 1987, with mausoleums and sculptures still drawing visitors. Enter through the Puerta de la Paz, inspired by the Arc de Triomphe, then follow the main avenue to the firefighters' monument for the 28 men who…

The national grid has collapsed several times and fuel shortages can disrupt transport, water supply and street lighting, so a blackout can reshape your evening. Charge your phone and power bank whenever the lights are on, carry water, and ask your host which hours the electricity usually drops. Do not count on a taxi…