Plan heritage visits for weekday mornings

Baghdad runs on cash. Cards are rarely accepted outside luxury hotels, and the local ride app Baly takes cash only and needs an Iraqi SIM number to register. Carry small Iraqi dinar notes for taxis, tea and market stalls, with clean US dollars printed after 2013 as a backup. Ask your hotel to help with a local SIM…

Rashid Street, opened in 1916, still carries 1920s facades with ornate mouldings and wrought-iron balconies above its shops and warehouses. Walking groups of students and amateur photographers tour the historic centre, and a rehabilitation project is under way, so expect some scaffolding. Go in the morning when…

Two medieval survivors stand close together in Rusafa: the brick Abbasid Palace, with arches and arabesque reliefs around its courtyard, and Bab al-Wastani, a city gate from around the 12th century. Mustansiriya is within walking distance, so all three fit in one slow morning. Opening at the palace is not always…

The Iraq Museum holds royal palace winged bulls and the Nimrud ivories in its Assyrian gallery, one of the great reasons to come to Baghdad. Give it a long morning and head to that gallery first, where the scale is the point. Reported opening days and hours differ from source to source, so confirm on the day and…

Boats leave from the Mutanabbi Ferry Terminal, a short walk from Mutanabbi Street, and show the riverbanks in a way the traffic-choked streets never do. Locals also cross the Tigris by boat to reach the Karkh bank, for example for the masgouf shops of Souq al-Shawka. Ask the boatman about the route and timing that…

Al-Zawraa Park covers about three square kilometers and is one of Baghdad's largest public parks, a welcome refuge from the summer heat. Iraqi authorities announced its reopening in November 2025, so check locally which areas are open. Weekends and holidays bring large crowds, so walk it on a weekday late in the…

Workers around al-Sadriyah market and Souk al-Shorja start the morning with kahi, a flaky flatbread, scooped through geymar, thick buffalo or cow cream, with honey or syrup and a glass of tea. Go early, because the specialist breakfast counters are busiest before nine. Ask for kahi with geymar and honey and take a…

Souk al-Shorja, Baghdad's oldest market, packs soap, spice, stationery and glassware lanes into alleys only three or four meters wide. In Ramadan and before religious holidays it fills with shoppers and moving slowly becomes the whole experience. Go on an ordinary weekday morning, enter from Rashid Street and ask a…