Kariandusi: hand axes up to a million years old

Mololine minivans and Easy Coach buses both run between Nairobi and Nakuru, and the ride takes roughly three to four hours depending on traffic. Take a morning departure so you reach town in daylight and still have time to settle in before an early park gate. Confirm your seat with the operator before you travel and…

Lake Bogoria is famous for its hot springs and geysers, but rising water has submerged some of them, so expect fewer than old photos show. Flamingos are best between June and October, and many visitors pair the lake with a neighbouring one rather than rushing it. The road to the shore is bumpy and floods have damaged…

Soysambu Conservancy lies between Lake Elmenteita and Lake Nakuru National Park and offers game drives, horse riding, camel treks and birdwatching. Flamingos can be seen on Lake Elmenteita, and the conservancy takes visitors all year. Entry is arranged in advance, so use its own booking page or a partner camp instead…

Lake Nakuru National Park lists about 450 bird species, so binoculars matter as much as a long lens. Birding is done from the vehicle, so drive slowly along the lake tracks and stop where the birds gather. The dry season is the best time, and early morning gives cooler light and busier birds. Ask rangers at the gate…

Naishi Guest House is a KWS-run self-catering house inside Lake Nakuru National Park, with a main house, an annex, a kitchen and a caretaker. Overnight guests are exempt from the 6 pm gate closing, so you can drive at dawn without the gate rush. Book through the official KWS reservation site, pay the deposit inside…

Baboon Cliff gives the classic wide shot of Lake Nakuru, the plains and the Rift wall, and you can reach it by car. Go in the morning, when clear skies and haze layer the view and the eastern shore light suits the water and birds. Picnic benches sit at the top, but baboons steal food, so eat in the vehicle and keep…

Lake Nakuru National Park has firm rules: a 40 km/h limit, no off-road driving, and you stay in the vehicle except at designated areas. Keep at least 20 metres from animals, never feed them, and skip the horn, since hooting is prohibited. Slow, quiet driving is also what gives you longer sightings. Keep doors closed…

Lake Nakuru National Park gates open at 6 am and close at 6 pm, and only overnight guests are exempt. With a 40 km/h limit on the tracks, a sunset stop at a far viewpoint can leave you racing the clock to the gate. Work backwards from closing time, start early when the light is soft and animals are active, and leave…