Enjoy Lake Victoria from the shore, not from the water

Walk the lakefront promenade to photograph small wooden fishing boats moving between the big ferries, with anglers fishing from the shore. Go early morning or late afternoon for softer light, and finish with a sundowner at a waterfront restaurant. Ask before you photograph people, and keep the lens off police or…

Guides describe the New Mwanza Hotel as a landmark in the city centre for decades, within reach of the market lanes and the lakefront. Book ahead in peak season, from June to October, and ask for a room away from the street if you are a light sleeper. Confirm current room and restaurant details with the hotel before…

Pikipiki motorbike taxis wait at many corners and cut through heavy traffic, but the UK government warns that motorbike taxis and bajaji often have poor safety standards. Wikivoyage calls Mwanza's pikipikis very dangerous. If you ride, insist on a helmet, agree the fare first and keep jewellery out of sight. For night…

Ferries to Ukerewe Island leave Mwanza in the morning and the crossing takes a few hours, so a same-day return can be tight. Before you board, ask the ticket office when the last boat back sails, and plan a night on the island if the timing does not work. The long rains from March to May can bring ferry delays, so…

Mwanza has more than one long-distance bus station, in different parts of the city. Nyegezi, south of the centre, serves southern and western routes and international coaches, while Buzuruga in Ilemela is another busy hub. Ask the operator which station your coach uses before you call a taxi, and buy the ticket a day…