El Brujo and the Lady of Cao: a full-day trip north

Most travelers pick one of two bases. The historic centre keeps the casonas, museums and restaurants within walking distance, while Huanchaco is a relaxed surf and fishing village about 15 to 20 minutes away by taxi, with hostels near the beach, surf schools and sea-front bars. Stay in the centre for a short city stop…

Take cash from ATMs inside banks, supermarkets or malls during business hours rather than from street machines, and withdraw only what you need for the day. Be alert when leaving a bank with cash. Small soles notes are handy for combis, markets and archaeological sites, so change a larger note at a shop or at your…

At the Huacas de Moche complex the Huaca del Sol is closed to the public and can only be seen from a distance, so a visit centers on the Huaca de la Luna, which is toured with a guide. Do not plan a climb of the larger pyramid. You can reach the complex by colectivo or taxi from Trujillo, or book a half-day tour that…

Puerto Malabrigo, known to surfers as Chicama, is a day trip north of Trujillo famous for one of the longest left-hand waves anywhere, with rides that can last minutes on a good day. The most reliable swell arrives in the southern winter, roughly April to October. Buses and colectivos run from Trujillo and take about…

On 29 June Huanchaco honors San Pedro, patron of its fishermen, with a late-morning mass, a procession through the main streets and an offering at the sea. The reed-boat procession is not guaranteed: in 2025 it was cancelled because wastewater damaged the totora ponds, and only the land procession and the offering…

The Calzaferia is a free shoe fair in El Porvenir where more than a hundred local makers show new models for men, women and children. It usually falls from late November into early December: the 2021 edition ran from 19 November to 5 December and the 2025 edition from 22 November to 7 December, with food zones, crafts…

Café Museo, on Jirón Independencia inside the toy museum building, is the easiest place in the historic centre to hear live music without leaving the colonial streets. Weekends bring live sets, with piano and jazz mentioned by visitors. Daytime is a quiet coffee stop, so come for the evening on a Friday or Saturday…

El Porvenir, about fifteen minutes from the centre, is known as the footwear capital of Peru, and buyers from other regions come to it for shoes for men, women and children. Compare several workshops and shops, ask whether a pair is natural leather or synthetic, and check soles and stitching before paying. Go by day…