Bastion 23: the Casbah's seafront palace complex

The Casbah is a maze of steep stairs and narrow lanes, and pickpockets work the busy stretches, so wandering alone with a full bag is the easy mistake. British advice is to use a good local guide and tell your hotel your plans. Book through an agency or your accommodation, go in daylight, carry only what you need and…

Ramadan changes the rhythm of Algiers. Many restaurants stay closed until sunset, working hours shrink, and eating, drinking or smoking in public during daylight is considered impolite. The next Ramadan is expected to begin around February 2027. Plan sightseeing for the morning, carry water for your hotel room and…

Algeria runs mostly on cash. Cards are mainly accepted at big hotels, and many ATMs refuse foreign cards, so arrive with enough cash and a plan for changing it. Ask your hotel or a bank where to change money, count every note at the counter before you walk away, and keep your receipts. Dinars cannot be taken out of…

At Houari Boumediene airport some drivers quote a flat price, sometimes in euros, instead of using the meter, and the airport's own director said in 2024 that some fares were too high. Walk to the official rank, ask for the meter before the bags go in, and if it is not used, agree the fare in dinars first…

For one wide shot of the whole bay, go up to the El Aurassi Hotel on the heights above Alger-Centre, where the lounge and rooftop look over the city and the sea. A drink or coffee gets you a seat with the view, so ask at reception how to reach the lounge. Aim for the hour before sunset, when the white city turns gold…

Copper work, known as dinanderie, is the craft Algiers is best known for, and the classic pieces are hammered trays, incense burners, basins and teapots. Look for metalworkers and handicraft stalls in the Casbah lanes and compare a few before you buy. Ask who made the piece and whether the engraving was done by hand…

Stah El Bahdja is a rooftop terrace high in the Casbah with wide views over the white houses, the port and the Bay of Algiers. The way in runs through a carpenter's workshop, then a climb to the roof, where you can order mint tea while the light changes. Aim for the afternoon, when the sun warms the white walls, and…

The Algiers Opera House Boualem Bessaih sits in Ouled Fayet, on the western outskirts, so plan your ride back before you buy a ticket. The programme mixes symphonic concerts, Andalusian music evenings and ballet, played by the house orchestra, ballet and Andalusian ensemble. Check the programme page for the next date…