Nairobi to Kisumu by Easy Coach: book ahead, know the stop

Dunga is where traditional boats and motorboats come in with the day's catch, which makes it one of the liveliest photo spots on the lake. Go in the morning, when the water is calmer, and keep to the edge of the landing so you stay out of the way of people carrying fish. Ask permission before photographing anyone and…

Dunga Hill Camp offers lakeside camping, and the campsite belongs to the same venue as the bar and stage. Friday and Saturday are the liveliest nights, with live bands and a busy car park, so book a weeknight if you want sleep. Ask for a pitch as far from the stage as the layout allows and pack earplugs. By day you…

Piny Luo is a Luo culture and heritage festival held each December that moves between counties in Luo country. Expect traditional music including ohangla and benga, storytelling, wrestling, local food and talks, with visitors from across East Africa and the diaspora. Check which county hosts the current edition before…

Kisumu Museum's biggest exhibit is Ber-gi-dala, a full-scale recreation of a traditional Luo homestead with huts for three wives, granaries and a livestock kraal. Signs and recorded programs in Dholuo and English explain Luo migration, healing plants and how a new home is founded. The grounds also hold aquaria of Lake…

Boats for hippo and bird trips leave from the Dunga landing, a busy, muddy shoreline where prices are negotiable. Before you step in, agree the route, how long you will be out, the total for the group and how you will pay, since mobile money is usually preferred. Morning is the recommended time, and weekends and…

Nyanza Club in Milimani has a nine-hole golf course laid out beside the lake, close to the airport, with the course dating from 1936. Call the club ahead to ask how visitors can play and what to bring, because access is run by the club. After heavy rain the lake can creep onto the lower fairways, so expect a softer…

Ndere Island National Park has no road to the island, so the boat is the real planning job. A speedboat from Kisumu takes under an hour, and park entry is paid online through the KWS payment portal. Agree the boat price, return time and pickup point with the operator before you leave. Expect zebras, hippos, crocodiles…

At Dunga Beach the fish market sits right at the landing, and shore-side eateries cook tilapia to order. Choose your fish, say whether you want it fried or grilled, and ask for ugali and kachumbari on the side. Since the Lwang'ni beach eateries were demolished in 2019, people from town drive out to Dunga for their…