Gin and afternoon tea in the Elephant Bar

Raffles Hotel Le Royal opened in 1929 as Hotel Le Royal and reopened under Raffles in 1997 after an extension and renovation. Its design draws on French colonial, Khmer and Art Deco influences. A night here is about the building and its history rather than sightseeing convenience. If that is the draw, ask when booking…

The Cambodia International Film Festival screens films for free at around ten Phnom Penh venues, including cinemas, the Institut Francais and campus open-air screenings, with a closing party at the Bophana Center. Tickets are handed out on site one hour before each screening, so arrive early for popular titles. The…

Visak Bochea, usually in May, marks the Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death. In the evening people circle temple grounds carrying candles, incense and lotus flowers, and Phnom Penh pagodas fill with worshippers. Dress modestly and watch quietly from the edge. For the national ceremony, many head to Oudong, about…

The Independence Monument is a lotus-shaped stupa that looks striking by day and is lit after dark. Come in late afternoon for softer light, then stay for the lights. On weekend nights the fountains and music draw crowds, so take wide frames early. A zoom lens helps for candid street shots around the roundabout, and…

Cambodia runs on US dollars and riel, and change is where problems start. UK advice notes fake dollar bills given as change in shops and clubs, and some airport drivers reject a note as torn so you pay with a larger one. Check each bill, refuse torn or marked ones and keep small clean bills with a little riel for…

The riverside night market sits between Streets 106 and 108 and is free to enter. It suits cheap clothing, cushions and paper flowers. Enter through the northern gate to avoid rows of parked scooters. Prices are often posted, but buying several items can earn a discount, so ask politely. The central stage plays very…

Yang Pov Riverside is a riverside pub where a house band plays old-school Khmer songs, and the weekly gig guide lists it on most nights. The room gets lively around 9 or 10pm, so come earlier for a better seat. Reviewers say staff and performers sometimes teach traditional dances, so be ready to join in. Opening hours…

Leng Pleng is the local gig guide and publishes a weekly list of who plays where in Phnom Penh. In a typical week it shows a different band nightly at Oscar's on the Corner on Street 104, a rock bar known for late, loud sets, plus jam nights and open mics around town. Check the list in the afternoon and arrive late…