Akitu in Ankawa: the April Syriac Heritage Festival

Erbil is small, so a hotel near the Citadel and bazaar lets you walk to most sights and join the evening crowd, though it can be noisy and has few luxury options. Gulan Street and the Ainkawa Road hold the upscale international hotels but sit far from the historic sites, so you will need taxis. Ask for the airport…

Qaysari Bazaar and the square below the Citadel are among the most photogenic corners of Erbil. Locals are generally fine with a camera, but ask before pointing it at a person, and skip military or government buildings entirely. The street currency stalls are busy and exposed, so keep your camera away from cash. A…

The Tailors' Market, Souq al-Khayyatin, sits in the alleys of the old markets and is the stop for traditional Kurdish dress. Shops work in colored jacquard and satin and say they stock every regional style. Ask whether a piece is tailored locally or imported, since both are sold, and try to go before Newroz, when…

Jalil Khayat is Erbil's largest mosque, topped by a dome about 48 meters high and within walking distance of the main square. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and plan your visit away from prayer times. Entry for non-Muslim visitors has depended on the guard on duty, so ask politely at the gate or go…

The Erbil Civilization Museum shows regional history in three halls, from prehistory through the early second millennium BC, then Urartian to Hatra periods, then Sassanid and Islamic times. Look for Halaf pottery, a Gudea foundation cone and Nimrud ivory plaques. Plan about an hour, and ask the staff before…

Meters are rare in Erbil taxis, so the fare is a number you settle with the driver before you set off. Ask your hotel what a normal ride to your destination should cost, then confirm it aloud at the curb. Most sights sit close together in the old center, so many trips are short. For other towns, shared taxis are the…

Private cars and taxis cannot reach Erbil's terminal. Drivers drop you at an outer checkpoint and transport hub, you pass a first scan, then a free shuttle runs to the terminal for a second screening. Add extra time on departure day, and on arrival expect your driver or hotel host to wait at the hub, not the kerb…

Gali Ali Beg, near Rawanduz, is where Erbil families go for cooler air and the sound of rushing water. You can walk close to the falls, though you will get wet, and in summer a dinghy ride is possible where the current is gentler. Hire a taxi for the day and start early, because holiday weekends fill the picnic areas…