Chessboards come out under the palms of the Plaza de Armas, where older men play for hours while painters, comedians and shoe shiners work the crowd around them. Later, friends and families gather at home for once, an evening tea of marraqueta rolls and mashed avocado that often stands in for dinner.
Past the cathedral square, a funicular climbs Cerro San Cristóbal, fishmongers stack conger eel under the iron roof of the Mercado Central, and murals cover old houses in Barrio Yungay. Summers are warm and dry, while winters are cool and wetter, with fresh snow on the Andes after the rain. A Local Friend walks beside you, letting you choose the turns while they fill in the stories.
