Around ten in the morning, small salteñerías fill with office workers and students, leaning in so the hot filling of a salteña lands on the plate, not on their shoes. On Sundays it becomes a family outing, and by lunch the talk turns to plato paceño, a dish the city proudly calls its own.
Above the canyon, the cabins of Mi Teleférico link the city to the high plain, and snowy Illimani appears at the end of whole avenues. Winter days are dry and sunny, nights turn cold, and most rain falls between November and March. A Local Friend can take you to their own corner of Sopocachi and introduce you to the neighbors who keep it lively.
