Drums start somewhere before you see anyone, and then the dancers appear in feathers, shell and paint, each community wearing its own story. Ceremonies mark harvests, weddings and reunions between neighbours, and they fill a village with song for hours. Coast, river valley and high ridge each keep their own customs, so no two celebrations look the same.
The weather is tropical, with a wet monsoon season and a drier one, while the highlands stay noticeably cooler. Pack for rain and for chilly mornings. A Local Friend can tell you when to arrive early and when to linger, and point out small moments a first-time visitor would miss.