Voices rise in harmony at a gathering, a guitar comes out on a porch, and birds answer from the trees at first light. Te reo Māori turns up in place names and sits beside English and sign language as one of three official languages. Each valley seems to have its own tune and its own weather.

The climate is temperate and maritime, with mild winters, comparatively cool summers and seasons that run opposite to the northern hemisphere. Rain falls heavily in the west and far less in the east, so pack a light jacket. A Local Friend walks beside you instead of ahead, sharing the stories behind the songs.