Trumpets and violins start up at the tables of Plaza Santa Cecilia, where mariachis wait under a statue of the patron saint of musicians for someone to request a song. Later, a DJ may fold norteño accordion into electronic beats, the hometown sound called Nortec.
Past the arch on Avenida Revolución, the city climbs to the towers of Zona Río and the stalls of Mercado Hidalgo, piled with chiles and piñatas. Out west, Playas de Tijuana watches the border fence wade into the Pacific. The weather stays mild and dry, with most rain between November and March. A Local Friend can turn your list of tacos, plazas and bars into one day that flows from a market breakfast to music.





