Water once crossed this valley on top of 74 pink stone arches, carried from mountain springs to the highest point of town and shared among its fountains. The aqueduct still strides over the traffic, and in the old center you can follow the water from fountain to fountain, through plazas and lanes up to the Templo de la Cruz, where it once arrived.
Beyond the arches, the city climbs into hillside neighborhoods and spreads north to Juriquilla, with its bullring and bars. Most days are dry, sunny and mild, and most of the year's rain falls between June and August. A Local Friend can turn your list of churches, plazas and gordita stalls into one day that makes sense.
