Waves slap against the Malecón and throw spray across the road, while anglers cast from the top of the seawall and couples claim a stretch of stone for the sunset. Across the harbor mouth, the lighthouse of El Morro watches ships glide past the balconies and arcades of Old Havana.
Inland, Vedado mixes 1950s towers with leafy streets, and the queue for ice cream at Coppelia is a city institution. The air stays warm all year, with a drier season from December to April and heavier rain in June and October. A Local Friend can pull up a chair beside you at a family-run paladar you would never spot from the street.



