A bell chimes behind you and a bicycle glides past with a child on the back. Riders cross bridges over canals, trains link one town to the next, and wide paths run beside fields that stay green and flat to the horizon.

The climate is temperate and maritime, with mild winters, cool summers and rain in any month, so pack a light jacket. A Local Friend can show you the quiet side streets and the favourite routes, and picks the next stop when your plans run out.