On first-name terms with the shopkeeper and whoever shares your hot tub, one hello can turn into twenty minutes about the weather. Neighbors gather in heated swimming pools while steam rises into the cold air, and a small population makes every introduction feel personal.
The climate is mild along the coasts, cool in summer and tundra-like in the highlands, and the weather can change several times in one afternoon. Summer brings the midnight sun, winter gives the northern lights their chance. A Local Friend tells you when to go early and when to linger, from an empty trail at dawn to one more hour in the warm water.