Both moods fit into a single week. In the city, streets stay awake late, and on a cold evening steam rises from a thermal pool while conversation carries on around it. A few days later you are crossing a wide, open plain where the loudest sound is the wind, and a village table is set.
The climate is continental, with warm summers and cold winters. Summer suits long terraces and lake shores, autumn brings clear, mild days, and winter is made for soaking in warm water. A Local Friend turns a list of places into a day that makes sense, pointing you to the right spot at the right hour.
