Every district here goes by a Roman numeral, and locals place a café or a friend's flat by its number as often as by its name. In District VII, the old Jewish Quarter, crumbling courtyards have become ruin bars full of mismatched furniture. Across the Danube, Castle Hill keeps its cobbled lanes and lookout terraces high above the river.
Further out, shoppers climb to the food stalls of the Great Market Hall and bathers settle into the hot outdoor pools of the Széchenyi Baths. Summers run warm to hot and winters turn chilly and gray. A Local Friend can walk you through their own district, from the corner bakery to the courtyard you would never find on a map.

