Light does half the talking here. It pours over stone walls and shaded courtyards, turns the sea a deep turquoise by noon, and ends the day in gold and rose above the hills. Villages and seafront towns trade shade for sun, and every road seems to lead toward the water.

The weather is Mediterranean, with long, dry, sunny summers, mild and rainy winters, and snow only on the high mountains. Spring and autumn bring warm days and softer evenings for walking and long meals outdoors. A Local Friend tells you when to head out early to catch the light and when to linger over one more coffee at sunset.