Festival season arrives with church bells, brass bands and neighbours in embroidered costume carrying a saint through the street, then a long meal nobody plans to end early. Along the water, evenings gather around small harbours, and inland, village fairs fill the squares with music and dancing.
The coast and islands lean Mediterranean, with warm summers and mild winters, while the inland is continental, with hot summers and cold winters. Spring and autumn are gentler for walking between towns. A Local Friend shares a favourite spot and the story behind it, whether that is a quiet cove, a village celebration or a family table.