Start on a side street where doors open onto small courtyards, neighbours call to each other from balconies, and conversation drifts out of the corner café. Each neighbourhood has its own character, and a short walk can cross an old market lane, a quiet stairway and a busy square.

Weather depends on where you stand, with hot summers and cold, snowy winters in the north and a milder Mediterranean feel in the south. Pack layers for the hills and plan long afternoons outside when the sun is out. A Local Friend picks the next stop when your plans run out, and a detour often becomes the story you tell afterwards.