White Lipizzaners dance in the baroque riding hall of the Hofburg, and a few streets away coffee arrives on a marble table with a glass of water beside it. Out on the green edge of the city, lanes wind between vineyards, and a bundle of pine twigs over a door says the Heuriger is pouring this year's wine.
Beyond the palaces, the Naschmarkt fills with food stalls and lunch counters, and on hot days people spread out along the beaches of the Danube Island. Summers are warm with passing showers, while winters turn cold and fairly dry. A Local Friend knows when to grab a quiet café table early and when to stay on as the wine garden fills up.
