A canopy walkway sways over old rainforest trees on Bukit Nanas, minutes from downtown traffic. Surprises like that keep turning up. Wooden Malay houses on stone stilts still line the lanes of Kampung Baru below office towers, and the Art Deco hall of Central Market, once a wet market for tin miners, now sells batik instead of fish.
Past the old center, Brickfields smells of curry leaves and sari shops, while Bangsar keeps its cafes and pubs busy after dark. The air stays hot and humid all year, and afternoon thunderstorms roll in fast and leave the streets steaming. A Local Friend pulls up a stool for you at a back-lane table you would have walked right past.

