Shared taxis slow at the curb on Hamra Street, and passengers lean into the window to call out a district before climbing in. Down on the Corniche, the city moves on foot and on two wheels, with joggers, cyclists and strollers following the seafront under the palms all the way to Pigeons' Rock.
Away from the water, Gemmayzeh fills its old French-era streets with cafés, bars and galleries, and corner bakeries pull man'oushe from the oven each morning. Summers are long, hot and humid, while winters stay mild and bring most of the year's rain. A Local Friend keeps the plan loose, so one coffee can turn into a whole afternoon on the other side of town.

