Steam drifts from low brick domes in Abanotubani, where people still soak in the sulfur springs that, by legend, convinced a king to build his city here. Above the baths, the walls of Narikala Fortress follow the ridge, and on the cobbled lanes below, churches of several faiths, a mosque and a synagogue share the same few streets.
Beyond the old town, Art Nouveau houses in Sololaki hide painted entrance halls, and a funicular climbs to Mtatsminda Park for views across the valley. Summers are hot and fairly humid, while winters stay cool and dry. A Local Friend walks beside you through it all, stopping where you stop, from a courtyard in Sololaki to a late plate of khinkali.
