Turquoise taxis crowd the roundabouts of the city center, and their drivers seem to know every shortcut between one circle and the next. In the old city the traffic turns to foot traffic, because the crooked lanes of Mandawi are too narrow for cars and shoppers squeeze past sacks of produce on their way to the stalls.
Beyond the first sights, families picnic under the plane trees of the Gardens of Babur, and kites climb over the hilltops on Fridays. Spring and autumn bring dry, sunny days, while winters turn cold and snowy in this high valley. A Local Friend keeps the plan loose, so a long tea or a sudden detour to a hilltop view can fit right in.
