Early light falls on a long strip of Atlantic sand, and for a while the shore holds little more than wind, surf and painted pirogues hauled above the tide line. Fishermen fold their nets, sellers sort the morning catch, and the ocean does most of the talking.
Inland, the Grand Marché fills a whole block beside the Sacred Heart Cathedral, zémidjans weave along the Boulevard Circulaire, and the fetish stalls of Akodésséwa keep their own district. It is hot all year, with a dry season from November to March and heavy rains in May and June. A Local Friend can lead you to the corner of the city they love most and tell you the story that makes it theirs.

