Morning starts with motos zipping up the hills, each rider carrying a spare helmet for the next passenger. By midday Kimironko Market is loud with fruit sellers and stacks of kitenge cloth, and after dark the Convention Centre dome glows blue, yellow and green while goat brochettes sizzle on bar grills.
Away from the center, Nyamirambo mixes tailors, barbers and street art, and Kandt House tells how the city began on a single hilltop. Warm days and mild nights last all year, with two rainy seasons and a long dry spell from June to August. When your plans run out, a Local Friend knows which hill, café or grill should come next.

