A bag of tiger prawns changes hands at the Mercado do Peixe, then travels a few steps to a kitchen grill. Lunch in Maputo often starts like this, with friends pulling chairs around one long table, sharing matapa over rice and cold local beer. The table is where news, football and afternoon plans get settled.
Beyond the waterfront, wide avenues shaded by acacias lead past the domed railway station to the lanes of Mafalala. Summers are hot and humid and bring most of the rain, while June to August turns dry and mild. A Local Friend can bring you into their own bairro, from the corner café to the street where the music starts.
