In the days before Tabaski, sheep wait tethered along residential streets and tailors work late on stiff, shining bazin. Every other year the city gathers again for the Bamako Encounters, when photographs from across Africa fill museums and cultural centers. These are the weeks when the capital dresses up and goes out.
Between celebrations, life follows the Niger River, crossed by long bridges to Badalabougou, where freshly dyed cloth dries on fences. Late evenings in Hippodrome belong to music. The climate is tropical savanna, with rains from June to October and the mildest, driest days from November to February. A Local Friend can take you through doors you would never have tried, into a dyer's courtyard or a family celebration.

