Carved chiefs' chairs stand in rows outside the Old Town post office, their backs crowded with dancers, animals and scenes of village life. Down on Malangalanga Road, the Old Town market trades dried fish, fresh produce and handmade baskets from stall to stall.
Between the old town and the new, the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre cares for rescued animals in riverside woodland, and addresses go by numbered Areas instead of street names. Most days are dry and sunny from April to November, with short, heavy rains from December to March. A Local Friend reads the menu, the map and the mood for you, from which Area serves the best nsima to when a carver is ready to talk.

