A bowl of palm butter and rice lands on a shared table in a small cookshop, and the person across from you is already asking where you are from. Lunch often ends with a handshake finished by a quick finger snap. Afterward, the stalls of Waterside Market spill toward the harbor, stacked with cloth, sandals and smoked fish.
Up on the hill, the empty Ducor Hotel looks out to the ocean, and across town a chalk news board keeps passersby reading. Expect heavy rain from May to October and hot, drier days the rest of the year. A Local Friend can bring you into their own corner of town, from the cookshop they trust to their favorite stretch of beach.


