Heavy rain sweeps over Pool Malebo in the wet months, and for a while the city waits under shop awnings. When it passes, the red earth on the hills steams, yellow taxi-buses fill the boulevards again and music drifts out of the bars of Matonge into the warm evening.
Beyond downtown, the green hills of Ngaliema look across the river to Brazzaville, and the Lola ya Bonobo sanctuary hides in forest on the southern edge. The climate is tropical, with rains from October to May and a drier, slightly cooler spell from June to September. A Local Friend translates the day, from a Lingala menu to the shortcuts across town and the feel of each neighborhood after dark.

