White houses stack up the hills from the harbor, and the lanes of the Casbah climb so steeply that walking home feels like a hike. Higher up, Notre-Dame d'Afrique stands on a cliff of the Bouzaréah hills, and short cable cars lift people from the shore to the heights in a few swaying minutes.
Back down the slope, the Jardin d'Essai spreads palms, bamboo and giant ficus below the concrete leaves of the Martyrs' Memorial. Summers are hot and dry, and most of the rain falls between October and April. A Local Friend can lead you up one more staircase to a family table you would never have found on your own.

